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The questions below represent only a few of the more common questions dermalogica is asked about skincare, if you have a particular issue you would like to discuss in confidence please contact our skin care experts on; TEL; 01424 427635 or e-mail info@skincaredirect2u.co.uk or visit our Hastings clinic.
what can I do about my dry, dehydrated skin • what is dry, dehydrated skin? • the top five causes of dry, dehydrated skin • proper treatment for results Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a very common problem in modern life, affecting people of all ages, even infants. And scientists agree – because of a sharp decline in the Stratum corneum lipids (lipids are fats that are essential for the structure and function of living cells), especially the significant drop in ceramides (one of the more important structural components of the lipid barrier), by the time we reach age 40, our skin will almost certainly be dry and/or dehydrated. However, some people experience the trials of a dry skin condition before they reach this time in their life. An increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to the sun, wind and chemicals in the environment contribute to dry, dehydrated skin in people of all ages. Dry skin, or alipoid skin, generally refers to skin that is lacking oil, whereas dehydrated skin is characterized by the lack of moisture in the Stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. Typically, cells that comprise the deepest layers of the epidermis have about 80% water content, while cells of the Stratum corneum are about 10% water. Anything below 10% is perceived as dehydrated.
Both dry and dehydrated skin is often irritated, inflamed and itchy, and it is generally worse in areas with relatively few sebaceous (oil) glands such as the arms, legs and torso, as well as the cheeks and eye area. There is also a widespread misconception that dehydrated skin is the opposite of oily skin. “Dehydrated” refers to lack of moisture (not a lack of oil), while “oily” refers to levels of sebum or oil on skin. While adequate sebum does help maintain water levels on skin, oily skin can be dehydrated. Dehydrated skin may lack water only in the outermost layers of the epidermis while maintaining normal levels in the deeper layers. Other symptoms of dry skin can include a feeling of tightness or tautness, especially after showering, bathing or swimming, skin that feels and looks rough rather than smooth, slight to severe flaking or scaling, fine lines, cracks that can sometimes bleed, and severe redness. These sources of dry, dehydrated skin are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable when combined with lifestyle changes and when under the care of a professional. Dry, dehydrated skin is common in older skin, since the activity of the sebaceous glands in the skin tends to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators decline over the years. Aging also may cause blood flow to the skin to decrease, causing a drop in sebum production. Over-Cleansing This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches. Lifestyle An EFA deficiency can result in skin problems such as chronic itching, dryness, scaling and thinning, and lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (prostaglandins are chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation). The lack of “good” fats in our diets could also be contributing to the increase in the percentage of the population that suffers from A deficiency of the mineral Zinc, which plays a key role in wound healing and in the metabolism of fatty acids and vitamin A, can also affect the integrity of skin. Smoking can also have a drying effect on skin, as smoking inhibits the body’s ability to provide oxygen and nutrients to skin. Smoking drains skin (and the body) of vitamins A and C and restricts blood vessels (which equates to less blood flow) – meaning smoking is somewhat like suffocating skin from the inside. And, an excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin. The Sun While many of us are responsible enough to apply sunscreen at the beach or when we’re spending a long time outdoors, there is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walk outside and an occasional lunch outdoors can add up to dry, damaged skin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done. Summer activities, such as swimming, can also contribute to dryness, as chlorine in pools and salt in ocean water causes skin irritation. There are many steps you can take to help prevent or lessen the discomfort associated with dry, dehydrated skin. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating and relieving dry skin. An effective skin treatment for dry skin will include exfoliation to help prep skin to receive nourishing ingredients, the use of emollients and hydrators to replenish skin, and vitamins to help smooth skin, stimulate collagen production and increase skin’s natural protective barrier. Exfoliation helps remove dulling skin cells while improving penetration of beneficial ingredients. The use of electric brushes will also greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients. It is also imperative to recognize that the success of your skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen and the wearing of sunscreen for anytime skin is exposed to daylight. Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced daylight protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level. Dermalogica’s Solar Defense System delivers this antioxidant technology through UV Smart Booster Technology, a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins that bursts upon contact with UV light, spilling the antioxidants onto skin, providing protection when it’s needed most. Make sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing. Apply at least a walnut-sized amount of sunscreen to skin and neck before going out into the daylight, and after swimming or exercising, to impede the damage caused Keep your surrounding temperature as moderate as possible, and never place any heat directly at your skin. The use of a humidifier will also help add moisture to surrounding air. And when in colder temperatures, use a protective salve or extra rich moisturizer containing Zinc Oxide which helps soothe skin, provides anti-itch relief, moisturizes and promotes skin repair. get mapped. get results. Speak with your skin therapist about Face Mapping, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin therapist can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin. Essential Cleansing Solution Extra Firming Booster MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque MultiVitamin Power Concentrate MultiVitamin Power Firm Super Rich Repair Extra Rich FaceBlock SPF30 MultiVitamin BodyBlock SPF20 How can I avoid premature aging • the five major causes of premature aging • sun protection as your first line of defense • proper treatment for results Premature aging refers to the unnatural acceleration of the natural aging process and is induced by daylight exposure (90% of premature aging is caused by ultraviolet rays from the sun) and lifestyle choices (smoking, stress, or diet). These factors trigger a slowing of collagen production and a breakdown in elastin, reducing “turgor” (or the “snap back into place” reaction when skin has been pulled). The skin cell turnover process slows, and dead skin cells shed off of our skin’s surface at a slower rate. Other contributors to the quickening of the natural aging process are sleeping positions, repetitive facial expressions and gravity.
Premature aging isn’t natural. So what is natural? Healthy aging – also known as intrinsic aging, or the normal process of physical change over time that is more about your genetics than your lifestyle. This process begins in our mid-20s, but, unlike premature aging induced by external factors, does not begin to show on our faces until decades later. While intrinsic aging is out of your control, you play a powerful role in controlling extrinsic aging. And the right lifestyle choices and a proper product prescription are your first steps towards maintaining healthy skin. A number of factors contribute to the process of premature aging (extrinsic aging). These causes are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable and preventable when lifestyle changes are adapted and when under the care of a skin care professional. The Sun The damage is seen through deep wrinkles, age spots (hyperpigmentation), spider veins, a rough, blotchy complexion and a “leathery” look. Cumulative exposure to daylight will also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walks outside and occasional lunches outdoors can add up to weakened collagen and elastin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pink or red skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done. Exposure to the Elements This goes for forced air heating as well. Warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge, soaking up moisture from everything it touches. Smoking Lack of Sleep / Stress Stress is inevitable – just like aging! But it also contributes to premature aging. Often when we’re stressed, we furrow our brow, place our hands on our face and pull it in every which way direction, frown (where do you think the term “frown lines” comes from?) and twist our faces around, performing repetitive movements that impart permanent damage. Stress also results in heightened adrenal activity, which over time can lead to impaired health. Lack of Exercise /Poor Diet A poor diet leads to a lack of nutrition for the cells and possible exposure to chemicals and preservatives. Fried and burnt food can also cause oxidation (free radicals from vitamins help counteract oxidation), leading to weaker cell structure. How can I avoid premature ageing. If the sun is your skin’s worst enemy, then sun protection is your first line of defense. And with new sunscreen technology that won’t clog pores, won’t cause irritation (redness and burning) and won’t feel chalky or greasy, it’s much easier to comfortably make sunscreens a part of your daily skin care regimen. When selecting sun protection, look for Sun Protection Factors (SPFs) that are combined with stabilized antioxidant vitamins. Research shows sunscreens formulated with antioxidant vitamins provide enhanced protection against damaging UV light and free radicals. With this increased protection from antioxidant vitamins, there is no need to add more potentially-irritating sunscreen chemicals to create a higher SPF level. Dermalogica’s Solar Defense System delivers this antioxidant technology through UV Smart Booster Technology, a microcapsule containing antioxidant vitamins that bursts upon contact with UV light, releasing the antioxidants onto skin, providing protection when it’s needed most. Make sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing. Apply at least a walnut-sized amount of sunscreen to skin and neck before going out into the daylight, and after swimming or exercising, to impede the damage caused by UV light. When skin is healthy, premature aging is minimized. Professional skin treatments coupled with the right lifestyle choices are great ways to begin treating the signs of premature aging. An effective prematurely-aging skin treatment regimen will include exfoliation, hydration, and vitamins to help smooth skin, stimulate collagen production and increase skin’s natural protective barrier. Exfoliation helps remove dulling skin cells while improving penetration of beneficial ingredients. The use of electric brushes will also greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients.
In addition, ask your skin therapist about products containing peptides. Peptides act as cellular messengers that regulate cell repair while stimulating collagen production. Peptides also help improve skin elasticity and tone while fighting the appearance of fine lines. get mapped. get results.
what can I do about my hyperpigmentation? • the source of Hyperpigmentation • sun protection as your first line of defense • proper treatment for results hyperpigmentation can affect people of any skin color, and any race. Very common and traditionally harmless, hyperpigmentation is an increase in color caused by either an increase in melanin, an increase in melanocytes, or the deposit of another substance that adds color by forming deposits in skin. This darkening of skin can be brought on by sun exposure, skin inflammation, medications, hormones, trauma, pollution and stress. It can even be the remnants of scarring related to acne or a surgical procedure. While some versions of hyperpigmentation are not treatable, as they reside in the dermis (the dermis layer resides under the epidermis, and it contains nerve endings, collagen, elastin, blood vessels, oil glands and sweat glands), epidermal hyperpigmentation (the layer of skin we can see) is treatable, but with any skin condition, must be thoroughly examined before a proper regimen can be prescribed. These sources of hyperpigmentation are among the most common, and fortunately, the most treatable when under the care of a professional. source 1: sun damage While pigmentation has many sources, ultraviolet light from the sun is the most common cause of pigmentation disorders. However, pigmentation caused by sun damage is most easily prevented and is the most easily treated. The normal response to daylight exposure (UV radiation from the sun) or tanning beds is an increase in melanin production, which causes uniform tanning in most persons but leads to freckling in some. Sun damage can also contribute to Solar Lentigo and sun spots (age spots), which are also known as letigines. They form mostly on areas of the skin that are left unprotected from the sun, such as the hands and arms. On the opposite spectrum of hyperpigmentation is hypopigmentation, which is the reduction or loss of pigment. Vitiligo is an immune disorder in which pigment-producing cells are damaged, which causes smooth, white patches on the skin that can appear anywhere on the body. To date, there is no cure for vitiligo. source 2: medication Medications are a frequent cause of sudden skin pigmentation. Most of the pigmentation is seen in sun-exposed areas, suggesting an interaction between ultraviolet light and ingested medication. Some known medications that can cause skin pigmentation include oral contraceptives, anti-seizure medications, anti-cancer medications, hypo-glycemic medications, non-steroidal medications, certain antibiotics, Accutane and Tetracycline. Skin pigmentation caused by medication can be prevented by wearing sunscreen daily and applying it properly. See the section in this brochure titled Sun Protection as Your First Line of Defense for more information. source 3: photosensitivity Certain ingredients found in cosmetics and fragrances will create a photosensitive reaction, which is an abnormally heightened response to daylight or ultraviolet radiation. Some ingredients that can trigger this reaction are Oil of Bergamont which is found in fragrances, and Methylene Blue, Orange red, Erythrocine, Fluorescein and Methyl violet, which are found in cosmetics and dyes. Avoid any products that contain artificial fragrances or colors if you are currently experiencing hyperpigmentation. source 4: hormones Chloasma, also known as melasma or “the mask of pregnancy,” occurs when the sun-exposed skin on the upper cheeks, forehead, and/or upper lip turns a tan, brownish color because excess pigment is deposited in the skin’s upper layers. It can also show up when women take oral contraceptives. Men can also experience melasma, but it is rare. Scientists have found that men with melasma show low production of testosterone coupled with a higher level of LH (luteinizing hormone). when the sun-exposed skin on the upper cheeks, forehead, and/or upper lip turns a tan, brownish color because excess pigment is deposited in the skin’s upper layers. It can also show up when women take oral contraceptives; it can also be experienced by men. sun protection as your first line of defense Whether you trace your hyperpigmentation back to the sun or hormones, sun can increase its appearance on skin. The daily use of sunscreen is your greatest weapon against further hyperpigmentation. And with new sunscreen technology that won’t clog pores, won’t cause excess irritation (redness and burning) and won’t feel chalky or greasy, it’s much easier to comfortably make sunscreens a part of your daily skin care regimen. While many of us are responsible enough to apply sunscreen at the beach or when we’re spending a long time outdoors, there is still not enough understanding that cumulative exposure to sun can also cause extensive damage. Fifteen minute walks outside and occasional lunches outdoors can add up to an increase in hyperpigmentation, weakened collagen and elastin in skin, and of course, skin cancer. And even if you don’t see pinkened or reddened skin after being in the sun, that doesn’t mean that the damage hasn’t been done. When selecting your sun protection, look for Sun Protection Factors (SPFs) combined with stabilized vitamins. Research has found that antioxidant vitamins are as important as sunscreens when defending skin from the aging and burning effects of damaging ultraviolet (UV) light and free radicals. When powerful, properly stabilized vitamin complexes are formulated with sunscreens, protection against UV exposure is enhanced. This also allows for higher protection without the addition of potentially-irritating sunscreen ingredients found in products with higher SPFs. By making sunscreen as much a part of your skin care regimen as cleansing and moisturizing (apply at least a walnut-sized amount of SPF15 to skin and neck) you can help prevent pigment in your skin from acting up, and help impede any other skin damage UV light can cause. A professional skin treatment is the best way to begin treating hyperpigmentation. During a professional skin treatment, your skin therapist can not only help assess what may be triggering your hyperpigmentation, but can help you manage it and prevent future instances. An effective treatment regimen will begin as a series of treatments, taking place once a week for a six week period. Your treatments will rely heavily on exfoliation, and your skin condition will determine the level of exfoliation that will work best while triggering the least amount of inflammation. Exfoliation helps remove pigmented cells while improving penetration of ingredients that help inhibit Tyrosinase (the copper-containing enzyme present in our tissues that determines just how much pigment is produced). The use of electric brushes will greatly enhance the penetration of the exfoliation ingredients. Galvanic current can also be used to increase product penetration. This professional tool creates gentle electrical currents that work to push with Tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients deep into the layers of the epidermis. In addition to ingredients that treat hyperpigmentation, your skin treatments should also consist of a thorough cleansing, the use of non-inflammatory products (as exfoliation causes skin irritation and inflammation, and can trigger post-inflammation hyperpigmentation), and should always finish with solar defense. It is also imperative to recognize that the success of your skin treatments will be heavily influenced by your professionally prescribed at-home regimen and the wearing of sunscreen for anytime skin is exposed to daylight . get mapped. get results. Speak with your skin care professional about Face MappingSM, the skin analysis that breaks your skin down into 14 individual zones so that your condition can be effectively treated. Regardless of your needs, your skin care professional can accurately prescribe a regimen with Face Mapping that will effectively treat all areas of your skin.
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